Indonesian cuisine is not a single kitchen but a constellation of hundreds of regional traditions spread across more than seventeen thousand islands. Every region seasons its food differently, yet a shared love of chili, coconut, aromatic roots and fermented ingredients ties the whole archipelago together. For the traveller, eating in Indonesia is one of the most rewarding ways to understand the country.
The Dishes That Define a Nation
If Indonesia has a national dish, it is nasi goreng — fried rice tossed in a hot wok with sweet soy sauce, garlic, shallots and chili, usually crowned with a fried egg and served with prawn crackers. It is eaten at breakfast, lunch, dinner and at two in the morning from a roadside cart.
Then there is rendang, the slow-cooked beef of the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra. The meat is simmered for hours in coconut milk and a paste of galangal, turmeric, lemongrass, ginger and chili until the liquid evaporates and the beef turns dark, tender and intensely spiced. In 2011 CNN readers voted rendang the world's most delicious food, and few who taste it argue.
- Satay (sate) — skewers of chicken, goat or beef grilled over charcoal and served with a rich peanut sauce.
- Gado-gado — a salad of blanched vegetables, tofu, tempeh and egg bound in a thick peanut dressing.
- Mie goreng — the noodle cousin of nasi goreng, equally beloved.
- Soto — a fragrant turmeric-yellow broth with countless regional versions.
- Bakso — springy meatballs in clear soup, the ultimate comfort food.
Nasi Padang and the Art of Sharing
One of the most theatrical dining experiences in Indonesia is nasi padang, the Minangkabau style of serving. A dozen small plates — curries, rendang, fried chicken, boiled greens, spiced eggs — are stacked on your table, and you pay only for what you eat. It is the flavour of West Sumatra distilled onto a single tabletop, and it has spread to every corner of the country.
Sambal, Tempeh and the Soul of the Kitchen
No Indonesian meal is complete without sambal, the chili paste that comes in dozens of forms — raw sambal terasi with shrimp paste, sweet sambal kecap, fiery sambal matah from Bali made with raw shallots and lemongrass. Sambal is less a condiment than an identity.
Equally important is tempeh, fermented soybeans pressed into firm cakes. Invented on Java centuries ago, tempeh is nutty, protein-rich and now celebrated by chefs worldwide as one of Indonesia's great gifts to global food.
Warungs and Street Food
The heart of Indonesian eating is the warung, the small family-run eatery found on every street. Here food is cheap, fresh and cooked to order. Alongside them, mobile carts sell everything from martabak stuffed pancakes to grilled corn, and the evening air of any Indonesian town fills with the smoke of charcoal and the clang of the satay man's bell.
Coffee, Sweets and Cooling Drinks
Indonesia is a coffee powerhouse. Sumatran Mandheling, Javanese arabica and the volcanic beans of Bali are prized worldwide, and the famous — and controversial — kopi luwak comes from these islands. In the tropical heat, locals cool down with es campur, a colourful bowl of shaved ice, jellies, fruit, coconut and sweet syrup.
Regional Variety
Flavours shift dramatically as you travel. Sumatran food is fiery and coconut-heavy; Javanese cooking leans sweet; Balinese dishes are herbal and complex; and the eastern islands favour grilled fish and sago. To eat across Indonesia is to taste a whole continent of cultures on a single plate.